Chasing Mavericks Page #3

I don't know where

you're going with this.

That boy's gonna surf that wave

anyway. You know that, right?

Even if he dies trying.

I mean, wouldn't you?

Okay, two Hawaiians,

two Santa Barbara,

one pepperoni and one cheese.

All right.

Thank you.

Dude. Dude.

It goes, first sauce,

then cheese, then toppings.

It's not rocket science.

You all right? You haven't been

here since you got here, man.

You ever see something

and you think,

like, it's the reason

you were put here?

I mean, like, on this earth?

Sure, man.

Every time I turn on Baywatch.

Right, keep it moving.

Pleasure Pizza. Okay.

Hey, Blond, I'll be right back.

Hold on, hold on. Hey, dude,

where are you going now?

- I'll be right back.

- You're killing me here!

Hi, sir.

Okay, here's the deal.

I'm gonna train you

for one thing

and for one thing only:

To survive that wave.

All right?

You want to know why?

Because I don't want it

on my conscience.

That's it.

No questions, no arguing,

end of story.

I teach you what you need

to know, and it's over.

You got it?

Got it.

Now, the reason

no one knows about this wave

is because it only happens

on big northwest swells.

And the window for those swells

closes in 12 weeks.

So you got 12 weeks.

Meet me in my shed

tomorrow morning, 6:30 a.m.

Not 6:
31 or 6:32.

Yes! Yes! Yes!

Hey. Ooh.

Don't bother with that.

We're not surfing.

Paddleboards.

All right. Unh.

A few things we need to

establish before we begin.

The first,

thou shalt not ding

Frosty's board

or damage thy neighbor's car.

Yes, sir. Sorry, sir.

Second,

this little, uh, program

is all about building

what I like to call

the four pillars of a solid

human foundation. Understand?

Yes, sir.

How could you? I haven't even

told you what they are.

Steady rhythm.

Drive and glide.

The four pillars

of the human foundation

are the physical, the mental,

the emotional

and the spiritual.

Though I admit

to being a little bit wobbly

in that department.

I'm not sure I understand, sir.

You know what a thesis is?

Uh, an idea.

Exactly. An idea which attempts

to explain something.

Lays it out to be

proved or disproved.

So here's our thesis:

It's 36 miles across the bay

from Santa Cruz to Monterey.

The day that you can

paddle that far

will be the day

you're ready to surf Mavericks.

Not a moment sooner.

Frosty, that's impossible.

Oh, more so than you know.

So the physical will represent

the sheer strength

needed to make the paddle.

So you're gonna be doing this

from now on, every day,

And the mental will be tied

to your own research.

The calculation

of the tides and swells,

and, of course, your ability

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