Chasing Mavericks

We all come from the sea,

but we are not all of the sea.

Those of us who are,

we children of the tides,

must return to it

again and again.

Four a thousand.

Five a thousand.

Six a thousand.

Seven a thousand.

Eight a thousand.

Nine a thousand.

One a thousand.

Two a thousand.

Three a thousand.

Four a thousand.

Five a thousand.

Six a thousand.

Seven a thousand.

Eight a thousand.

The ball! Go over there!

Pick it up, pick it up,

pick it up.

- Ten a thousand.

- Come on!

Eleven a thousand.

Come on, Jay, let's go!

We're gonna get wet.

Man, did you see that?

It's building!

That was the longest one yet.

One a thousand.

Two a thousand.

Oh.

Three a thousand.

Four a thousand.

Five...

Sophie, no!

Jay, no! Look out!

Jay!

Oh, yeah, you're

smiling now, big shot.

But if I hadn't

paddled around the Point

at that exact moment...

It's a miracle,

that's what it is.

And I don't believe in miracles.

How old are you?

What, six, seven?

Eight.

And three quarters, sir.

Well, you just used up your

entire allotment of dumb luck.

Here's a novel idea.

On your next little date,

why don't you go to the arcade?

Or pee-wee golfing.

Or something that doesn't

involve getting you killed.

Because he likes to time

the waves.

- Shh.

- What? You do.

What do you mean,

time the waves?

Um, to see if the swell

is building or dropping.

The more seconds between them

each wave in a set,

it means it's getting bigger.

Who taught you that?

Nobody, sir.

Just figured it out.

You just figured that out

on your own?

Okay.

Thanks. Bye.

- Bye. Okay.

- Bye.

Go straight inside, all right?

Close the door.

What now?

How big you reckon

that wave was, sir?

It's a small world, kid,

but how they gauge the size

of waves, well, that differs

from place to place,

so, hard to say.

So it might be bigger

somewhere else?

Look, it was definitely

big enough, okay?

Like I said, kid, small world.

I appreciate you

saving Sophie, Jay.

One of the bravest things

I've ever seen.

Mom?

Mom?

Hi, baby.

Unh. Sorry,

Mama's not feeling so good.

Don't worry,

Dad will change his mind.

There are hot dogs

in the fridge.

Hey.

Hey.

Need a hand?

Hey. What with,

the coffee or the cupboard?

Uh, you just missed

Roque again.

Just put her down.

Ahem. Yeah.

I had to help

a friend out after work.

Mm-hm.

I'll go in,

I'll give her a kiss.

Kiss would be nice.

Conversation every once

in a while, maybe nicer.

Time to wake up, Jay.

Okay.

How do I look?

You look awesome.

I have an interview at Sears.

So, I'm coming home at 12:00

and we are going

to get school supplies.

Good luck.

Thank you.

Excuse me. Ma'am?

Hi.

Your husband home?

Uh, well,

depends on who's asking.

I'm Jay Moriarty, ma'am.

He saved my life

down at Three Mile yesterday.

Oh, sweetie, I'm sorry,

I think you're mistaken

because Frosty was up in Scott's

Valley laying roof yesterday.

No, ma'am. He was surfing

the exact same time

I used up my allotment

of dumb luck.

Is that so?

Frosty is actually

down at The Point right now

but is there anything that I can

help you with, Jay Moriarty?

Well, I seem to be missing parts

on the bottom of my board.

Okay.

Fins, fins, fins.

- Where does he keep them? Oh.

- Wow.

They call that thing a gun.

It's for riding

the really big monsters.

Like that.

Where is that?

You should ask Frosty yourself.

Thanks.

Beat it, little trash.

Blondie, what are you doing?

Hey, man, you got to go in.

You're bleeding.

I can't.

Not until I get up.

Dude, believe me, nobody

gets up their first time.

Okay, okay.

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