Chasing Mavericks Page #2

Right.

Let's do it.

Yeah, Frosty!

Now, we'll agree to

forget how you got up here,

but as far as most

are concerned,

that wave's a myth.

Like the Loch Ness monster.

The four of us who surf there

want to keep it that way.

Is that clear?

Buoys reporting

swells of 28 feet

at 17 seconds coming from...

How big was that wave?

Did you hear what I just said?

Yes, sir.

Loch Ness monster.

How's it going over there?

Mom's not renting out

the back anymore.

Means I get my own room.

But I got to double-up

my shifts at Pleasure Pizza.

And your father?

He wrote me a letter

a few years back

from his base in Panama.

So what'd he say?

I don't know.

Never opened it.

All right, well,

I got to get out of here.

Got to get to work.

Hey, sir, I want

to ride that wave.

I want to take that drop.

Not gonna happen.

Why not?

Because untrained boys

don't step in the ring

with Mike Tyson, that's why.

I can handle it.

You don't just do it.

Buddy, I've been surfing

that break for 20 years.

You have any idea how much

strength and know-how you need

to survive a break like that?

Frosty, I'm getting

stronger by the day.

I'll hold my own.

Stronger by the day, huh?

Yeah.

Okay, give me your hand.

Now resist me.

Okay, that all you got?

Is that it? Is that it?

Ow. Ow, ow, ow.

Okay.

You ain't strong enough.

Right now, I'm surfing every

single day, right? So, if I...

Shut up, all right?

Now, I know how good you are.

I've seen you out there.

You surf circles around

those other kids.

But those are normal waves.

Surfing normal waves

is about how you perform

when everything goes right.

Now, big wave surfing,

that's a different ball game.

That's about how you perform

when everything goes wrong.

One bump off the face

of that wave,

and you're hitting the water

like concrete

at 50 miles an hour.

And you got a thousand tons

of water

coming down on top of you.

It's knocking you senseless,

ripping you apart

and pushing you down to a place

that is so deep and so dark,

you don't want to be there.

So why do it?

Hey. Come on, get out of here.

I got work to do.

Train me, then.

Train me to ride it.

Did you hear what I said?

Go on, get.

You don't get it, do you?

What?

There are all kinds of sons,

Frosty, you know?

Some are born to you

and some just occur to you.

Jay's looked up to you

his entire life.

I mean, can't you see

how much he needs you?

You want me to teach

him to surf that wave?

He's a kid.

You made me promise

I wouldn't even surf that...

Yeah,

and you break that promise

every chance you get.

You think I don't know

where you were this morning?

I heard the message

on the machine.

"25 at 16"? Come on.

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