The Summit Page #3
cuts on the head,
black nose, broken,
blood from mouth.
- Finish.
- Totally finished, almost.
If I knew that Dren was dead,
I would not have gone up.
The Serbians,
they want to take him
down to base camp.
I said that that's impossible.
"What we can do is that we can"
down to Camp Four"
"and give him
Honestly, what's the point
of lowering a body
from 8,150 meters to 7,800?
8,000 meter,
you're in the death zone.
Every step is a burden.
But when you have a dead body,
it's a hell of a load.
Okay, we have to go down
like this, guys.
- Yeah, yeah, yeah.
- Whoop.
You have to stay not so close.
Yes.
If you do fall,
you release, okay?
It's-it's-it's-
it's our lives too, okay?
- Yeah, yeah.
- Remember.
Jehan Baig, from Pakistan,
suddenly started acting
really weird.
He's coming down
on my right side,
holding onto the rope,
which goes around my lower legs,
and we are crying out...
Release the rope!
Release the rope!
He did not make one single move
to stop his fall.
Jesus Christ.
Instead, he just let go,
and he shoots off like a rocket
straight out to the open air
and just disappears.
Oh, K2,
it was full of surprises.
The conquest in '54
was much more complicated
than we
could ever have imagined.
But believe me,
we came prepared.
We were 11 climbers.
With us, 13 Hunzas
and a battalion of Balti,
the humble,
extraordinary local porters.
After endless months
of preparation,
it began with a fantastic march
to the foot of the peak
through an exotic,
timeless landscape.
We laid siege to the mountain
for two grueling months.
We established base camp
and then started building camps
all the way up the mountain,
acclimatizing our bodies
to the altitude,
the unknown,
preparing ourselves
for the summit attempt-
anything to help us survive.
In memory of Art Gilkey,
Dudley Wolfe, Pasang Kitar.
1954. Unbelievable.
'94.
There are many people
who just died on their way down
from the summit.
Yeah.
Dying on... died on descent.
Almost on everyone
you can read it,
"Died on descent."
Yeah.
Here's the original cross.
Everybody saying,
all Western people,
even our Sherpa community,
they say to me,
"Why are you going on K2?"
"Because it is too dangerous"
"and the accident rate
is too high."
"Why you are going there?"
If you climb on K2,
you have to trust each other.
Fully for 200%.
Gerard said, "Hey, listen."
"It would be lovely
if I can bring Pemba."
And Pemba is a Sherpa,
but a lot of people
that he's just an ordinary guy
who is bringing up stuff
up the mountain.
But Pemba was a really...
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