The Perfect Wave Page #3

And my dad, well,

he just wants me

to get ahead in life.

And me?

Well, I just wanna get out there

and discover freedom.

In June, July, and August

Drinking white wine

by the reservoir

In just three months

I'd known ya

By then I could've told ya

who you are...

'Cause all of ya

all year round...

What do you think

you're doing, mate?

Just dropping

into my wave like that?

So what happened out there?

I got into it with this local.

And this guy,

who I didn't even know,

paddled up and diffused

the whole thing.

- Jeez.

- Hang on.

Hey, ladies.

- Hi.

- How's it going, guys?

- Good.

- You're... you're not from here, eh?

Nah. Well, we live in new Zealand,

but we're from Cali.

- You guys look pretty good out there.

- Thanks.

There's a Hawaiian beach party

tonight if you wanna join us.

- Sounds good.

- Okay.

- So we'll see you later?

- Yeah. Where's it at?

The big house at the bottom.

- Down the beach?

- Yeah.

- Cool.

- See you later.

See you ladies there.

Hey, how are you?

- Oh, how's it going, mate?

- Hey, there.

- Hey.

- Hey! You found it.

Yeah.

- Hey.

- Hey, how's it going?

Yep. You made it.

You wanna go?

There's that young guy

I saw in the lineup today.

Wanted to fight half the locals.

That was you out there today.

Thank you for stepping in.

- Ian.

- Ian, I'm Lachlan. No problem.

Those guys are donkeys.

They think aloha's

a sign of weakness, you know?

Yeah, aloha's a rare thing

these days, man.

- Sure is.

- You're not from here, huh?

No, we're all just

traveling through, you know?

Oh, sorry.

Um, Ian.

Hi, Ian.

Nice to meet you.

- I'll get us another round.

- Cheers, love.

So what's your vibe?

Surfer on a surf trip.

I gathered that.

Where you headed?

- Bali.

- Indonesia, huh?

Gonna hit Padang Padang?

Ulus, the hole, green bush,

what?

Yeah, I'm pretty much

on a dream surf trip.

I just left home and...

I'm doing it, the whole

"endless summer" thing.

We wanna hit all the spots,

you know?

So it's indo and then Africa.

Africa.

Africa's where

you can lose yourself.

Hit the standard...

j-bay, cape town,

then get up north a little bit.

Some outer islands

with some outer reefs.

Just fire still waiting

to be discovered, you know?

- Really?

- I'm headed there next, so hit me up.

- Okay. Thank you.

- Good meeting you, bro.

- Cheers.

- Cheers, love.

Time to paddle out and chill.

Everyone's towing.

No, 'cause it's a complete lie.

Africa's where you can lose yourself.

With some outer reefs that

fire...

Still waiting to be discovered.

Hit me up on the road.

My dad used to say,

"waves are not measured

in increments of feet,

they're measured

in increments of fear.

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