Nanga Parbat Page #4

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- I beg your pardon.

- Yes, of course!

I've always counted Austrians

to the German people.

In general, it was a German expedition.

This mountain has claimed the lives of many

our compatriots.

Its conquest should be

written for the German people.

On Nanga Parbat died the same

Sherpas, Gurkhas, and Hunza,

as Germans, Austrians and southern

Tyroleans together.

However, the first who wanted to climb to its summit, but

Unfortunately, he died, never having achieved his goal,

Briton was Albert Frederick Mummery.

All the German Expedition 30's and 40's

were doomed to failure.

They were too heavy to lift.

The majority of these were military operations,

colonial dictatorship

piles of equipment.

Narostayuschih due to problems in transportation

This equipment is after a hard mission

and not moving.

To conquer the "eight-in this case

requires a network of high camp.

- Material resources, discipline ...

In this case, the organization, cooperation,

Careful planning

not considered to be the primary basis for you

Himalayan expedition?

Training and instincts - that's the key to success.

In the mountains, it can happen anything.

Cold, heat, snow, discharged air,

toe of the avalanche ...

Only one of these factors can

destroy any plan.

Yes, Mummery was not essential equipment,

but his gut instincts did not disappoint him.

Also, like Hermann Byuhlya.

Byuhl made a single climb, despite

orders from the camp,

because he felt that the only way he

can do it.

When he was 41 hours later, numb to death,

returned to the camp,

He proved to all that no one could have imagined.

Routes through Rupalvand,

and he thought insurmountable.

It is our goal.

And what exactly is the complexity

climbing Rupalvand?

Have you ever had seen the northern wall

Eiger with his own eyes?

So, Rupalvand three times higher.

None of the three expeditions failed

rise to a height of less than a kilometer to the summit.

At Rupalskoy wall - the worst weather

conditions from all sides of the mountain.

Porters climb no higher than mid-wall.

After that, all need to carry yourself.

But the most difficult starts in the "zone of death"

where lack of oxygen and the body

starts was produced.

Crack Merkel - is a key place.

He who overcomes her,

he gets to the top.

But is this really so, we learn

only when find ourselves at the top.

"What makes you rise to the highest

mountain in the world,

If you do not know whether you will return back? "

In the name of their motherland? For the sake of fame? For Honor?

Please, let's give

word young man!

Why draw an artist?

Would you like to say that the climber is a kind of

man art?

And behaves selfishly?

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