The Fanatic Search 2 - A Girl Thing Page #2

Year:
2011
90 min
27 Views


The first year that I could do international competitions, in 2004, I was world champion.

That had impressed me because I wasn't in the best of my form,

and winning my first world championships had been something very important for me.

And the first year I was senor over classed, I won the European Championship

Second to the last finalist, the most decorated female competitor of all time, 5 times world champion,

she had been European Champion in the Senior coming from first year Cadette category,

she took it all, and great at the cliff as well,

let's hear it for Charlotte Durif of France!

And now in my first year as a real senior, I won my first World Cup in Chamonix this summer.

The winner tonight, Charlotte Durif!

Well, the Pic St. Loup is a huge hole!

An enormous overhanging cave hidden on a cliff that you can't see,

You get there by abseil and you discover an immense cave,

in the middle of nowhere.

I like to climb on sight because I succeed at it,

in fact I think that it's my climbing style that allows me to well adapted to on sight climbing.

And since I don't like to return to my climbs once I've had a shot on them, I prefer the on sight.

To do this 8c on sight, it was really just luck!

It was never even one of my goals to climb 8c on sight; it was more like "that will never happen!"

...And then finally you progress and in the order of things you tell yourself "and if one day you reach that level?"

The route itself, "Les Rois du Petrole", it goes where the cliff is the most overhanging,

a line pretty obvious, with a section that is nearly a roof.

It's a huge overhang which eases up very slowly... and you begin on these big balls,

you climb between them, you jam your toes, your heels...

It fit me well, there were a lot of knee bars, it's a climb of endurance even though it's very physical,

it suited me well even if there were several spots that I could see myself falling.

So there it is; a combination of being in good shape, a bit of luck and to find a nice line.

My father helps me a lot, seeing that he's followed me since I was very young,

that he observes and accompanies me, he sets my limits as well,

If he knows that I set for myself certain goals, he'll do everything to help, he knows what I need.

I feel that I don't climb at all in the same way when I'm with him.

I'm used to passing a lot of time with him, and when he belays me I can really focus on what I'm doing.

I don't ask myself "is my belayer sick of holding the rope for me, is he really focused on what I'm trying to do?..."

It relieves me of a lot of distractions.

I didn't feel too bad and I told myself "okay, I'll go take a turn in the 8c", but without any thought at all of doing it on sight.

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Laurent Triay

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Submitted on August 05, 2018

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